Tapestry of Tet

I flew into Hanoi during Tet, the Lunar New Year, the most important and widely celebrated festival of the year in Vietnam. It is a holiday for the Vietnamese to honor their ancestors. This year they welcomed in the year of the dragon. On the eve of Tet, the streets come alive with a vibrant energy.

Hanoi’s streets are buzzing, churning rivers of scooters and motor bikes, unimpeded by traffic signals or, it seems, rules in general. To cross on foot requires a deep breath and a confident stride into the stream, the flow miraculously parting around you.

This precarious vantage point affords you a glimpse of Hanoi carpooling -  five family members on a Vespa - Grandma side saddle with a toddler on her lap, Mom with baby in a carrier, Dad driving perched on the front of the seat with a seven year old standing in front of him, with no helmets or child-safety seats in sight. Oh, and Mom and Dad looking at their phones.

But they’re here to partake in the festivities. Tucked in among the bustling streets, narrow alleyways were filled with families and friends sharing a meal at make-shift pop-up restaurants. Perhaps restaurant is an  aspirational descriptor. It is typically no more than a cluster of tiny plastic stools and tables surrounding a cook squatting in front of a small hibachi. The lack of space makes for a close dining experience but a lively atmosphere.

I wandered through the crowded streets brimming with elegant women wearing ao dias, colorful silk tunics worn over pants with delicate buttons and vivid embroidered designs. Photos were constantly being snapped as stylish women posed with the Hoan Kiem Lake as a backdrop to commemorate the event and their beauty. 

Small campfires dotted the streets. Fake paper money was set down in the flames and prayers were whispered to ensure the happiness and well-being of ancestors in the after-life. Real money was placed in bright red envelopes, known as "lì xì" in Vietnamese, and given to children as a symbol of good fortune and prosperity for the coming year.

When night fell, fireworks ignited the night sky with brilliant bursts of colors. It was not only the blasts of colors that were spectacular but the cacophony of sounds. The air was filled with crackles, thunderous booms, and the gasps and cheers of the spectators. 

The entire night was an explosion to my senses, filled with memories I will never forget.